Showing posts with label John Besh. Show all posts
Showing posts with label John Besh. Show all posts

November 17, 2011

Are you too busy?

Someone once referred to my family as being like the mafia; we are very close and protective of each other.  I credit my parents raising me and my siblings with the understanding of the importance of family.  This understanding is continued to be passed onto my niece and nephews.  I am crazy about my  family, they are the most important people in my life. We disagree and fight at times, often we have very busy schedules that may not allow each other to visit as often as we would like, but when it comes down to it we would be there for one another in an instant if we needed.

You cannot turn on the computer or TV without hearing something bad the world around us. Hearing friends say "I am too busy for..." or "I wish I would have..." makes me really start questioning where is this all breaking down. We often do not realize we should have spent time together until we are usually at someone's funeral.  Then we want all the time back with a person and it is too late.   I am guilty of looking at my smartphone or texting while I am with someone, but recently I have tried to be more conscious not to do it. I want to be present in the conversations and interactions with people.  I love to cook in my kitchen and often invite other to join me, unfortunately "I am busy"  has been the RSVP.

You can tell by my blog I am a fan of Chef John Besh; this article appeared on the Huffington Post Kitchen Daily today & I wanted to share it.  

Think about when it was that you and your family sat down and enjoyed a meal and conversation without the TV on, texting or phones ringing.  If you can't remember it is time for a change.

http://www.huffingtonpost.com/john-besh/a-passionate-plea-for-home-cooking_b_1069420.html?ref=fb&src=sp&comm_ref=false#sb=1805385,b=facebook


When I think back through my seemingly idyllic childhood, and if forced to actually ponder thoughts like, "What were not only the grandest memories but rather the deepest memories," food would certainly have been involved. Not surprisingly so as this, I'm quite sure, would be a standard response from anyone who hailed south Louisiana as their home.

Food meant home. Sure we went out to eat, but that was special, an occasion which certainly in turn meant Sunday clothes and a fancy, Commander's Palace type of restaurant. Home was the center of our universe and the family table would surely have been its epicenter. The food at the table told us who we were and where we came from, southern and southern Louisianian at that.

Our food taught us about the seasons (only crawfish were found on the table during the spring) that glossy food periodicals didn't teach us that -- it was inherent with that time and place. We traveled the world, learning of our families' travels through the Air Force by the foods we ate.

From the table we actually communicated (yes there was no texting, no instant messages, Facebook or even a rudimentary email) -- all we had was each other that we visited with and we were forced to use and develope our verbal skills just as much as our palettes matured and developed.

We were taught table manners and various other areas of etiquette, which serve me well to this day. By the sound of it, measured against contemporary standards, one might think that I came from from am uppity lot and I can assure you that was not the case. The son of a disabled fighter pilot, we weren't living high on the hog, but our family table was rich! Through food and the focus that the family table brought, both certainly orchestrated by my parents, the lives of my five siblings and myself were shaped in so many wonderful ways.
 Fast forward a number of years and I find myself the father of four boys and husband to one wife. I have a slew of wonderful restaurants and very little time for those very meals that enlighten me to my calling to chefdom. "How did this happen?" I'd often ponder. Then one day I did the unthinkable and questioned my wife, Jenifer, about what she was feeding our children. To say she let me have it would have been an understatement -- she made it real clear that I'd go to the ends of the earth to find that special ingredient for our clients; however my family would have to fend for themselves.

This truly shook me to the point that I knew to remedy this problem would take a focused effort for me to purchase and stock the pantry using two decades of kitchen logic to manage the preparation of various menus for the family, just as I would in one of our professional kitchens. Menus that offer variety, sustainability, nutritional balance and ease of preparation, since there'd be no brigade of comis doing nearly all the grunt work of peeling, dicing and blanching as is standard in a commercial setting.
Instead I created My Family Table as a go-to guide for the home cook, removing all the mystique from cooking, in a way that will help, I do hope, to bring folks back into their kitchen -- not as a sport but as an act of love.

By a renewed focus on the Family Table we can make the world a better and tastier place, one dish at a time! We are at a very important time in our societies' history and much of what and how we as a people source, cook and eat will decide how we continue to evolve. Will food only be relegated to super fast takeout chains to be eaten out of a bag, by hand, by ourselves, on the run while sitting in a vehicle? Or will we begin to cook again? Will we stop viewing food as merely a competitive sport for TV or will we protect, preserve and defend our culture by cooking again? My Family Table is more than a fancy chef food book saying, "Hey look at me cooking at home"-- it is however a passionate plea for home cooking!

October 17, 2011

My Family Table -A Passionate Plea for Home Cooking

John Besh
November 2011
Non-Fiction- Cookbook
ISBN:    9781449407872
Hardcover
Pages 272
List Price: $35

John Besh's book My Family Table -A Passionate Plea for Home Cooking is the perfect book to bring a busy family back to the table for meals. As a home cook you can find a cookbook on almost any type of food, technique, or by almost any chef.  We buy books because we find a recipe that catches our eye, we want to try a new technique or style of cooking, or we are a fan of the celebrity chef gracing the cover.  Then life gets busy and we look for what is fast, easy and the family will eat.  I am guilty of having celebrity chefs gracing the cover of some of my cookbooks, but none of them are books I have enjoyed more than My Family Table and Besh's previous book My New Orleans. 

"Please take my preaching with a grain of (sea) salt as I am a self-proclaimed, or rather a self-confessed, hypocrite who has in many ways prospered from the food/television relationship.  But I openly admit that this contradiction has helped me see the errors of my ways.  At one time, after the devastation of Hurricane Katrina had crippled the restaurants of New Orleans, putting suppliers and farmers  and growers of all kinds out of business, I gladly took part in cooking competitions on TV because I believed my appearance could help communicate to people across this country that it was okay, even urgent, to return to New Orleans, to visit or live. ...I also realized that by doing that kind of TV, I might actually be hurting the same local food culture and family involvement I was seeking to protect."
My Family Table is not just page after page of recipes and a few pictures here and there, Besh tells a story with each chapter and eat dish.  He tells stories about his wife, Jenifer; and his boys, Brendan,  Jack, Luke and Andrew; they make you feel like you are part of their family. His passion for his heritage, his community and his family come through on every  page and in every picture.  I cannot wait to to have the actual book in my hands.  The photography, by Maura McEvoy and her daughter Oona, brings you into every moment of the story.  The team of people who brought this book together have created a book that not only will be used in my kitchen, but also placed on my coffee table because it is of its beautiful photographs.  


After reading the chapter Sunday Supper I want to be at John Besh's house on Sundays!  John describes Sunday suppers at the Besh house; it truly is a family affair.  Having his boys involved helps them identify their heritage by what they eat.  Bringing the family back together for meals isn't just gathering around the table and eating, it is actively participating. Participating includes making the meals, having conversations and creating memories.  The recipes in My Family Table are not complicate or time consuming.  They do not include a bunch of specialized ingredients that you spend money on and only use once in a small amount; they are ingredients you might already have in your pantry and you will use in other recipes.  I have tested a variety of the recipes in Besh's new book including the Cauliflower Mac & Cheese, Beef Noodles, Slow-Cooked Beef Chuck Roast, Fried Eggplant Salad, and the Lemon Blackberry Cheesecake.  I look forward to continuing to make recipes from My Family Table for my family and friends.

In addition to recipes, Besh includes tips on staple items to have in your pantry, simple techniques for how to cook an egg, and even how to fillet a fish.  He also list resources for products he uses.

John Besh is a James Beard Award winning chef from southern Louisiana.  He is the owner of six restaurants: August, Luck, Besh Steak, La Provance, and Domenica. He has appeared on shows such as The Next Iron Chef and Top Chef Masters.

October 10, 2011

My Family Table

I have been previewing this book.  This week I will begin testing recipes and writing reviews.  I already love this book! Getting the family together for dinner? Recipes in the book will bring everyone to the table. Once again Chef John Besh book contains beautiful photos and personal stories to accompany the recipes that will fill anyone's kitchen table.

The book is due out  November 1st.

Esquire just named it one of the best five new cookbooks www.esquire.com

September 10, 2011

Cornmeal Fried Okra

I started picking up okra at the local farmer's market.  I knew I had a wonderful recipe in the My New Orleans cookbook (there are actually a several).  The more I page through this book the more I love it.  I had to giggle when, in the story on the side of the page, John Besh says "When I was a kid, I couldn't understand why they didn't sell fried okra in movie theaters instead of popcorn!"  What? Is he crazy?  OK, this girl loves popcorn, so I don't think fried okra could replace it.  (Sorry Chef).  Typically okra gets a bad wrap because people often think of it is a slimy vegetable, when prepared wrong that can happen.  However, when prepared correctly it has crisp flavor that might remind you a bit of a green bean.  I found a little tip that John's grandmother used to keep her okra from being slimy; she used a capful of white vinegar while it stews.  Okra is often found in gumbo and soup as thickener.

If this is your first experience with okra you may be wondering what to look for; look for smaller, green spears.  Most recipes you can substitute frozen for fresh.

Ingrediants:
1 pound okra, sliced into 1/2-inch rounds
1 cup buttermilk*
1 cup cornmeal
1 cup flour
2 teaspoons Basic Creole Spices**
1 quart canola oil
Salt

1. Puck the okra and the buttermilk into a mixing bowl and toss.

2. Whisk together the cornmeal, flour, and Creole Spices in another mixing bowl.  Lift the okra from the buttermilk and toss it in the cornmeal mixture until well coated.

3.  Heat the oil in a medium sauce pan (I used a small pot to reduce splatter) until it reaches 350 degrees on a candy thermometer. Fry okra in the oil in batches, about a third at a time, until golden brown; about 5 minutes. Remove okra from the oil with a slotted spoon or strainer and let drain on paper towels while frying the next batch.  Season with salt (I used more Creole Spices in place of salt).  Serve Hot.

This recipe makes a thinner crust, if you want a thicker crust repeat steps 1 and 2.

I served with a Creole Sauce I made
1/4 cup mayonnaise
2 Tbsp Dijon Mustard
Dash of hot sauce (I used Sriracha) to taste
Pinch of Creole Spices

I think I will also be able to convert this recipe over to a Cornmeal Fried Pickle (that will be coming later)

*Don't have buttermilk-use 1 tsp of white vinegar, put in a 1 cup measuring cup, then fill with milk.

**Basic Creole Spices mix can be found on my blog

Basic Creole Spices

Basic Creole Spice - makes 1/2 cup -
    2 tablespoons celery salt
    1 tablespoon sweet paprika
    1 tablespoon coarse sea salt
    1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper
    1 tablespoon garlic powder
    1 tablespoon onion powder
    2 teaspoons cayenne pepper
    1/2 teaspoon ground allspice

Mix together the celery salt, paprika, salt, pepper, garlic powder, onion powder, cayenne, and allspice in a bowl. Transfer the spices to a clean container with a tight-fitting lid, cover, and store. 



*Recipe from My New Orleans by John Besh

August 30, 2011

Cherry Tomato Five-Minute Sauce

One of the reasons I bought the cookbook My New Orleans was the chapter on tomatoes. I remember looking at it in the middle of winter and wishing I was picking tomatoes off a vine or shopping the farmers market for the freshest tomatoes. My mom's garden has been producing cherry tomatoes all summer and almost every time I am at my parents house my mom sends me home with cherry tomatoes.  I enjoy them, however I cannot eat them fast enough. It was very easy to make. The sauce isn't thick; I think it would be a great for Gazpacho or a base to my Bloody Marys.
  • 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
  • 2 quarts ripe cherry tomatoes (red, orange or both), halved (I even used yellow)
  • Leaves from 1 branch basil
  • 1 teaspoon granulated sugar
  • 2 teaspoons crushed red pepper flake
  • 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Heat oil in large, deep skillet over high heat until hot. Add tomatoes, basil, sugar, pepper flakes and garlic and cook until tomatoes come to a full boil. Cook 5 minutes more, until most tomatoes have collapsed, crushing them with back of a wooden spoon (I used a potato masher).


From My New Orleans
Using a food mill, puree sauce or push through a strainer into a bowl with rubber spatula. Discard skins. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Pour into a jar and refrigerate.

Makes 1 quart.

August 23, 2011

Chicken and Smoked Sausage Gumbo

When I saw the okra at the farmers market one thing came to mind - John Besh's My New Orleans.  This was my first attempted at an official gumbo.  The recipe is definitely not a small serving (Serves 10 to 12), but I like to entertain and have family and friends for dinner; dish is perfect for a large group.

The roux made up of the fat or oil and the flour provides a rich base to the gumbo.  The slow cooking takes the color from light tan to a rich brown and makes the first step the beginning of a wonderful smell in your kitchen.

Don't go searching for a pre-made Creole spice you may have the items you need right in your pantry. I thought Besh's blend added wonderful flavor and and just the right amount of kick.  You will have plenty to use on other dishes as well.

The cook time is approximately 2 hours, it is worth the patience with every bite.

Ingredients
    1 cup rendered chicken fat or canola oil
    1 cup flour
    2 large onions, diced
    1 large chicken, cut into 12 pieces (I used boneless skinless thighs, they held up great and were tender)
    2 tablespoons Basic Creole Spices (recipe follows)
    2 pounds spicy smoked sausage, sliced ½ inch thick
    2 stalks celery, diced
    2 green bell peppers, seeded and diced
    1 tomato, seeded and chopped
    2 cloves garlic, minced
    Leaves from 2 sprigs fresh thyme
    3 quarts chicken stock
    2 bay leaves
    6 ounces andouille sausage, chopped
    2 cups sliced fresh okra
    1 tablespoon Worcestershire
    Salt
    Freshly ground black pepper
    Filé powder
    Tabasco
    White rice for serving
 
Make a roux by heating the chicken fat or oil in a large cast-iron or heavy-bottomed pot over high heat. Whisk the flour into the hot oil. It will immediately begin to sizzle. Reduce the heat to moderate and continue whisking until the roux takes on a deep brown color, about 15 minutes. Add the onions, stirring them into the roux with a wooden spoon. Reduce the heat to medium-low and continue stirring until the roux is a glossy dark brown, about 10 minutes.

Season the chicken with Creole Spices. Add the chicken to the pot, raise heat to moderate, and cook, turning the pieces until browned, about 10 minutes.

Add the smoked sausage and stir for a minute before adding the celery, bell peppers, tomatoes, and garlic. Cook, stirring, for about 3 minutes. Add the thyme, Chicken Stock, and bay leaves. Bring the gumbo to a boil, stirring occasionally. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer for 45 minutes. Stir occasionally and skim off the fat from the surface of the gumbo every so often.

Add the andouille, okra, and Worcestershire and season with salt and pepper, several dashes of filé powder, and Tabasco. Simmer for another 45 minutes, continuing to skim the fat off the surface of the gumbo. Remove the bay leaves and serve in bowls over rice.


Basic Creole Spice - makes 1/2 cup -
    2 tablespoons celery salt
    1 tablespoon sweet paprika
    1 tablespoon coarse sea salt
    1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper
    1 tablespoon garlic powder
    1 tablespoon onion powder
    2 teaspoons cayenne pepper
    1/2 teaspoon ground allspice

Mix together the celery salt, paprika, salt, pepper, garlic powder, onion powder, cayenne, and allspice in a bowl. Transfer the spices to a clean container with a tight-fitting lid, cover, and store.


I think I made Chef Besh proud with my gumbo.